Tuesday 17 July 2012

Returning to Civilisation……

Ilboru Safari Lodge  – 29th February
Even in the knowledge that there was a proper bed, fresh food and even a shower waiting at the end of toady there was still an air of reluctance as we said our final farewells and grabbed our rucksacks.

The walk out was slated for six hours, first taking us out of the low scrub of the moorland zone and back into the rainforest before finally reaching the gate and signing the register for one last time.
Initially the track was steep and rocky, not a great combination on tired legs but with a more relaxed schedule everyone was able to go at their own pace from those of us steaming ahead at the front to those taking a more leisurely (exhausted) amble at the back!

A quick stop at the Mweka Hut (and a very welcome Mars Bar) and motivated by the prospect of a cold beer (Kilimanjaro of course) we plunged into the deep rainforest.
Once again the sheer variety and saturation of the plant life took our breaths away and almost as a parting gift we caught our first glimpse of the Impatiens Kilimanjaro, a small red and yellow flower exclusive to this mountain!

With gravity now on our side and an almost subconscious urgency to our stride we broke through the forest and arrived at the gate to find ourselves immediately surrounded by a gaggle of sellers peddling t-shirts, posters, books and jewellery.

With exhaustion quickly setting in we ignored their temptations (but not their charm) and quickly signed the register before steeling ourselves for the final 15 mins to our rendezvous.

Settling down to the much promised beer and feeling rather pleased with ourselves we pondered how far behind the rest of our team were.
Bracing ourselves for lengthy wait we did our best to savour the beers that represented the last of our shillings.
The sellers had multiplied since our arrival and now outnumbered us by at least three to one and our pleas of poverty fell not so much on deaf ears as enterprising ones as they offered to trade against our dirty and battered kit!
We resolved to keep our heads down until reinforcements arrived providing a welcome update on everyone’s progress and a very welcome new audience for the sales patter.
Pretty soon there was enough of us to fill one of the buses and tired and exhilarated the long drive provided the perfect opportunity to review some of the 1,500 photo’s I had managed to accumulate across both mountains!

Thursday 5 July 2012

A Big Song and Dance……

Ilboru Safari Lodge  – 29th February
Just when I thought I had seen everything the mountain had to offer but as I left my tent this morning to find there was at least one stunning view remaining!


For a few minutes I stood mesmerised as my eyes scanned the upper reaches trying to find our route and trying to translate the distant patches of white into the mighty glaciers I had witnessed up close and personal the previous day.
This morning would be the last time we would see many of our guides and porters and there was a tangible sense of anticipation replacing the usual hive of activity.


Throughout our trip these guys had been awesome.
The sight of the porters charging up the mountain with loads many of us would have struggled to lift was both impressive and humbling.
But more than this it was had been the combination of their humour, dedication and excitement that had ensured that our every moment in their care had been as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.
A quick team photo, well as quick as it could be with almost 100 trekkers, guides & porters, and it was time for us to thank them for all their hard work.

 Even the mountain managed to sneak into this pic!
At the start of the trip we had each contributed $100 into the tip pool but by the time we had reached the buffalo camp we had all added an additional $10-$20.
This pool had been carefully broken down and was distributed according to rank with the porters and cooks receiving theirs first before moving onto the guides and finally (and to the biggest cheer) our head guide Meke.

 Meke receiving his tip from John.
As their final gift to us the crew broke out into song to celebrate our time on the mountain and for the next 15 minutes blew us away with their enthusiasm and energy creating an indescribably emotional experience.


Eventually things wound down and realising that we weren’t off the mountain yet we grudgingly returned to prepping our kit ahead of the final outing of that now familiar cry “Saddle Up”!
Kilimanjaro, Kilimanjaro,                                     Kilimanjaro, Kilimanjaro,
Kilimanjaro, mlima mrefu sana.                           Kilimanjaro, long mountain journey.

 Na Mawenzi, na Mawenzi,                                   And Mawenzi, and Mawenzi,
 Na Mawenzi, mlima mrefu sana.                         And Mawenzi, long mountain journey.
Ewe nyoka, ewe nyoka,                                      As a snake, as a snake, 

Ewe nyoka, mbona waninzungukaa.                    As a snake, it winds all around.
  
Jambo, Jambo Bwana,                                      Hello, Hello Sir, 
Habari gani,                                                      How are you? 
Mzuri sana,                                                       Very fine, 
Wageni, mwakaribishwa,                                    Foreigners, you’re welcome, 
Kilimanjaro yetu,                                                to Kilimanjaro. 
Hakuna Matata.                                                 There is no problem.