Walking away from one adventure (but towards another)……

Ilboru Safari Lodge – 20^h February

The walk out from Miriakamba to Momella Gate was nice and straightforward, not too steep and with a nice contrast as we moved through the forest before breaking out onto grassy plains where the only thing keeping the grass short is the grazing Buffalo.

Moving through the forest....

Before breaking onto grassy plains!

Spirits were high with a blend of satisfaction having reached the summit of the mountain we were leaving behind and anticipation for the challenge that Kilimanjaro would bring.

After an hour and a half the ground levelled noticeably and we knew that our Mt Meru adventure was almost at an end but it was soon apparent that the mountain has just a little more to offer!

Following the trail towards a bridge we veered off to the right were the walls began to climb forming a chasm that at its peak was 50ft high with a tangled maze of tree roots spilling down its sides and a waterfall at its apex.

 Admiring the waterfall before getting a closer look at the tumbling tree roots.

As we crossed the last plain before the gate under the careful gaze of Wildebeest and Warthog we saw a big crowd of “day trekkers” heading towards us.

 Warthog and Wildebeast on the final plain before the gate.

I couldn’t hold back a wry smile as I imagined what an intrepid (ragged?) group my Swiss friends and I must make heading towards them with the mountain rising up behind!

Our arrival back at the start triggered a new round of celebratory handshakes (and the perfect excuse for chilled Kilimanjaro beer) as we signed the register and Vitus presented our certificates.

 

 Two certificates for the price of one

(you wouldn't normally get one for Little Meru if you'd reached "Socialist Peak")

Eventually we were out of excuses for further delay and it was time to say goodbye to Reto & Vreni.    

Despite a slightly awkward start I can honestly say it had been both a pleasure and a relief having some company on the mountain.

Whilst I had gone fully prepared to enjoy my adventure on my own there’s nothing to compare to the camaraderie gained through sharing an experience with like minded companions.

Hands shook and email addresses swapped we headed our separate ways with the drive back to the Ilborou providing time to ponder the new group I was about to meet!

 Mt Meru......DONE!

“Tipping is not a place in China”……

Ilboru Safari Lodge – 20^h February 

Over dinner the matter of tipping had been the hot topic of discussion after one of the groups we had ascended with were pretty much confronted by their porters demanding their tips.

Aware of many of the stories that surround this issue (i.e. baggage being held to ransom) it was understandably distressing particularly when we discovered that one of the guys had already been conned/bullied into giving an extraordinarily generous tip on Kilimanjaro.

Once again, thanks to AWC I was perfectly prepared as they had provided me with a factsheet which provided a high/low range of tips that may be appropriate as well as an assurance that none of their staff should solicit any tips.

Personally I always knew this was going to be tricky for me.

Normally a trekking group would pool their tips for distribution amongst the crew however being on my own I was painfully aware that the size of each tip was going to have to be based more on what I could afford than what each member of my crew deserved.

Occasionally AWC like to hire a porter from one of the local villages at the gate, improving their relations with the local community and giving them the opportunity to “trial” new porters before adding them to their roster.

Christopher had been hired this way and fulfilled the role of general porter carrying much of the food and kit that had made my time on the mountain so comfortable.

 Christopher clearly looking forward to another day carrying the bulk of the equipment!

Mustapha had been my “personal” porter charged with looking after my baggage so thanks to the airlines possibly had one of the easiest trips of his career!  

Mustapha, porter, waiter and self appointed Swahili tutor.

He also fulfilled the role of waiter/steward and whether it was first thing in the morning or at the end of a long day walking his beaming smile was always as welcome as the cup of tea he’d be offering.

January had been my cook for the trip and from roast potatoes to perfectly seasoned soup his skill with what amounted to little more than a gas camping stove had amazed me throughout.  

 January, possible the best chef in the world?

(given the eqipment at his disposal)?

And finally there was Wilfred who had started as my guide but finished as a friend.

His knowledge and keen eye had helped me catch many of the photo’s that would define this part of my trip and his support had been instrumental in my climb to the summit.

 Wilfred, a surprisingly good guide (despite looking like he's lost)!

 Aware that I was on my own he made sure that I was never alone, joining me for meals etc, whilst treading that fine line that ensured his presence was never intrusive.

In the end it was smiles all round and whilst they may not have received what they deserved after a little quite contemplation it was a little more than I had originally planned!

My Mt Meru Crew - February 2012

Must Come Down......

Miriakamba Hut – 19^th February

The descent from the summit of Mt Meru begins in the dawn light and suddenly all the features that had been obscured by the darkness on the way up spring to life.

 Dawn rising from just below the summit.

 Not quite the In The Shadow of Kilimanjaro (dodgy 80's horror movie)

but it is the shadow of Mt Meru

Pausing to look back at the final climb to the summit I turned to Wilfred, “No wonder you go up in the dark, hardly anyone would get up there if they could see it”! 

 Well, would you continue if you saw what was left to climb?

 

Feeling slightly nauseous from the altitude I was keen to make as quick as progress as possible on the descent whilst ensuring I got all the photos that would help me describe what it had been like.

 Descending down the long sand & scree slope that took so much effort on the way up

Wilfred took my camera for the final part of the descent to the Saddle hut, ensuring that I returned with plenty of pictures of me in full mountaineer mode.

 Me, in full mountaineer mode (apparently)!

It also allowed me to have both hands free for the traverse back to Rhino Point, if this had been tricky in the dark it was even more so now on tired legs and the full benefit of being able to see what lay below in the event of a slip!

 Negotiating the traverse back to Rhino point, tough in the dark but tougher on tired legs!

Close to two hours after standing on the summit we walked back into the Saddle Huts, right on schedule and feeling both physically and mentally exhausted.

However the days work was not yet done and after a quick (and very welcome) brunch it was time to make our way down to the Miriakamba Huts for our last night on the mountain.

A gruelling trek down the very steps we had climbed the day before it should normally take around 2 hours. 

It may have been the promise of a beer but walking now as one big group we managed to make it back in a shade over 90 minutes including a decent break to watch a troupe of Baboons relaxing in a break in the forest.

 Baboons, the final (but very welcome) distraction on our way down to BEER!

Fate can be a cruel mistress and sitting at Miriakamba later that afternoon we got a timely reminder of just how fickle the mountains can be as the cloud cleared to reveal a thick dusting of snow on the summit ridge.

 Snow on the summit ridge

Whilst it wouldn’t have necessarily prohibited us from reaching the summit it would have made it significantly more challenging and might have meant we were drinking beer of consolation instead of celebration!

 The route to the summit from Rhino Point

What Goes Up……

Miriakamba Hut – 19^th February

Despite my best efforts an early night eluded me and so I only managed to get little more than a nap before waking up at 12:45am for my attempt at the summit of Mt Meru.

All wrapped up and ready to go!

 A combination of feelings between excitement and apprehension mixed in equal measure as I sorted my kit and nibbled on a light breakfast before grabbing a few minutes to myself.

Whenever I’m away I try and find the “Plough” constellation in the night sky.  It’s something we can usually see from our garden and helps me feel a connection to home.

It’s not always possible to spot and so far on this trip I had drawn a blank but just as we were ready to set off I found it, upside down and just above the dark silhouette of Little Meru.

At the risk of sounding clichéd but in that moment it was a good as having Claire’s hand on my shoulder telling me I’m going to make it!

 Wilfred doing his best Grumpy impression, clearly not happy about posing with Sponge Bob!

With Vitus setting a very slow, steady pace we headed off into the dark arriving at Rhino Point in just over an hour.

Knowing that I’m a keen photographer Wilfred was eager to make sure we reached the summit in time for sunrise. 

To that end we pressed on across the tricky traverse from Rhino Point to the summit ridge.

Still feeling strong we made good progress and by the time we had reached 4,100m we were ahead of schedule…..

And that’s when the altitude bit!

The next hour was spent on a constant grind up a slope of fine volcanic sand and loose scree, feeling the strength bleed away as you slip back one step for every three you move forward.

The time we had gained steadily slipped away and the higher I climbed the more it felt as though my boots had been filled with lead.

It’s at this point that the inner demons made their play, telling me that I couldn’t make it, that I wouldn’t make it and your only option is to stubbornly persist in placing one foot in front of the other.

My darkest point came about 4,350m when my guide Wilfred, asked me “How many fingers am I holding up?”

Knowing that this was his way of checking whether the altitude was affecting me too badly I was relieved to be able to rattle off the answers to that and the other questions that followed.

Whilst the guides have a responsibility to help their clients achieve their goals and reach the summit, for a good guide this will always be secondary to their obligation to get them back safely.  

With this in mind I knew that from this point forward Wilfred would be keeping a close eye for the symptoms of AMS.

The final 100m of ascent was quite simply hell.  

The steady shuffling steps were no longer an option as the way to the summit was up a natural “staircase” of blocks each rising a foot or more.

In the rarefied air the effect was akin to when you experience a short dizzy spell after standing too quickly.  Three or four steps was all I could manage before I needed to pause as the last thing I could afford right now was to lose my balance!

At approximately 6:30am I virtually crawled onto the small summit, joining the small group of trekkers who had reached it ahead of us.

 Kilimanjaro "photo-crashing" my summit pic

Looking significantly more triumphant than I felt!

 And even Wilfreds looking a tad less Grumpy now.

Everyone was impressed with Sponge Bobs efforts to reach the summit,

not least because he managed it in a boat, 

apparently a first for Mt Meru.

With near perfect timing Reto, Vreni and Vitus caught up with us just in time to witness the most magnificent sunrise, complete with Kilimanjaro outlined on the horizon.

 And even the sunrise lived up to it's star billing!

Mini Meru, DONE……

Saddle Hut – 18^th February

With the trek up to the Saddle Hut only taking a few hours in the morning, followed by a veritable feast for lunch, there was just enough time for a quick snooze before the afternoon excursion up Little Meru.

 It's just a quick after lunch stroll, honest!

Rising to 3,800m this subsidiary peak offers excellent views of the trail up to Rhino point (the start of the summit ridge) which is useful as it’s going to be near enough the middle of the night by the time we get there tomorrow!

However this vantage point offers excellent views in every direction including the Momela Lakes with their pink highlights (which are actually flocks of Flamingos) and the ever present Kilimanjaro looming on the horizon.

 Momella Lakes, complete with pink highlights

But as great as the views are the primary reason for the 90 minute round trip is to provide a boost for the acclimatisation process and give your body a taste of what lies ahead tomorrow.

 The Mt Meru Ash Cone

Although short, it’s a fairly steep grind to the top and for the first time I could feel my lungs battle against the thin air and my legs begin to burn.

However a few tactically timed photo stops along with the now familiar “Pole Pole” pace saw us make steady progress until we reached the top.

Spongbob chilling out at the summit

The views, as promised were spectacular and at the very least we were now all assured of at least a Little Meru certificate should we fail to make the summit tomorrow!

 The summit cairns

Possibly one of the best outcomes from this excursion was the opportunity to get to know some of the other groups that we would be hoping to share the summit with.

The combination of excitement and apprehension e in the mess hut was tangible as we tucked in to an early dinner and for me there was an element of relief as my guide Wilfred arrived with news that my missing luggage had been retrieved.

 Saddle Huts to Rhino Point, the first part of tomorrows trek...

And Rhino Point to the Summit (somewhere in the cloud)!

Feeling strong and ready now all I was hoping for was to grab as much sleep as possible before the 12:45am wakeup call and the push for the summit!

The 39 (hundred) Steps…...

Saddle Hut – 18^th February

Having woken up in time to witness a majestic sunrise with Kilimanjaro in all its splendour and tucking into a “gourmet” breakfast it was soon time to crack on.

 

Kilimanjaro sunrise from Miriakamba Hut

 As I looked up to the ridge rising high above I don’t mind admitting I was a little apprehensive setting out for today’s climb to the Saddle Hut.

Although shorter it is significantly steeper and takes us up to 3,500m, which is well into the realm of mountain sickness.

The trail follows a seemingly endless series of steps winding their way up through the forest and whilst you never forgot that we were making our way up a mountain the “Pole Pole” pace set by Vitus, made sure it was never uncomfortable.

 Step, step and step again!

 "Pole, pole" Ranger Vitus followed by Vreni & Reto

Moving ever onwards (and ever upwards) the transition between the rainforest and the heath/moorland became apparent.  The trees grew shorter and more sparse allowing the plants and flowers these mountains are famous for to bloom (pun intended).

 

 Climbing out of the rainforest with the summit of Little Meru ahead

Of course this provided ample opportunity for a quick photo breaks which combined with a game of hikers leapfrog (you pass a group resting, they pass you whilst you rest) meant that despite the considerable effort I never really felt close to the limit so perhaps all the training’s paying off after all!

 Hikers leapfrog in action!

Arguably the mornings highlight was the discovery of a small Chameleon perched on a stick beside the track resulting in (another) photo frenzy!

 A small Chameleon, perched on a stick (does exactly what it says on the tin)!

Feeling good and strong after a cracking mornings walk, as we closed in on the Saddle Hut, I allowed my eyes to wander once more to the summit and find myself beginning to believe that I’m going to make it!

Camp Life…...

Miriakamba Hut – 17^th February

On Meru all the accommodation is in huts, each room has four bunks and if it’s free the key will be hanging on the door frame.

 

Not quite 5 star (but it does come with a morning  coffee tray)!

Undoubtedly  the biggest complement of the day was when having been shown to my room by our ranger, Vitus, my new found Swiss friend Reto expressed surprise (and disappointment?) when he discovered we wouldn’t be sharing.

No sooner had I dropped my bag off my shoulder when one of my porters, Mustapha, appeared with a bowl of hot water and some soap, perhaps they had smelt me coming!

 Mustapha, porter, waiter & self appointed Swahili tutor.

Following a much needed wash I was pointed towards the Mess hut, I hadn’t really stopped since arriving so the sight of tea, coffee and popcorn and an opportunity to sit down and gather my thoughts was very, VERY welcome!

 Afternoon tea, Tanzanian style.

The Miriakamba Huts were bustling with activity playing hosts to guests on their way up the mountain as well as those who were on their way down following their summit attempt that morning.

 As the afternoon cloud cleared revealing the long ridge leading up to the summit it became much easier to distinguish the two groups

 Miriakamba Huts and the view up to the summit

Those on their descent looked up with a weary but satisfied smile whilst the rest of us stared at the summit with a combination of excitement, trepidation and awe!

As the sun set and the mountain behind us faded to a dark silhouette it was time for dinner.

Yours truly with the "other" mountain in Tanzania in the background

Amazing is in already in danger of becoming an overused superlative but I just couldn’t (and still can’t) believe how well I was going to eat in the mountain.

Armed with little more than a glorified camping stove my cook had whipped up a first night feast of soup, fried fish and roast potatoes served with a vegetable stew and finished with a big bowl of fruit salad! 

 

Thoroughly stuffed and with the days exertions catching up with me I decided to head to my bunk shortly after dinner, leaving the successful summiteers to their celebrations and looking forward to my turn in two days time!