Sleepwalking……

Millennium Camp – 28^th February

It started with a rattle of our tent, it was and a quick check confirmed that there was no sign of the storm, it was 2am and our attempt at Uhuru peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro, was ON!

Complete chaos ensued, despite having prepped all our kit before going to bed there were people and rucksacks everywhere and by the time I had fought my way to the mess tent there was precious little of the breakfast left.

I seemed inundated by everyone asking for help with their rucksacks, gloves, even their lunches, which whilst I was happy to give I was desperate for just five minutes just for the chance to get myself sorted!

 I’d barely managed to get my gloves onto my own freezing hands when the familiar call of “Saddle Up” came from John.

Frantically rushing to get my water sorted, rucksack on and a flapjack down my neck I was just in time to join the back of the line as the person before me stepped off.

With my first moment to pause and think since waking up the reality of the situation began to sink in, after all the planning, preparation and training it was all going to come down to the next 7-8 hours.

Having failed to find it for the last few days (despite some wonderful clear skies) I looked up to the sky and just above the dark silhouette was the familiar pattern of the “Plough”.

An instant morale boost I felt the adrenaline (and panic) of the last 45 minutes subside as once again I began a summit day feeling Claire’s  hand on my shoulder and whispers of support in my ear.

Walking now as one big team the pace at times was frustratingly slow but with an idea of what was yet to come I worked hard to adapt my rhythm and enjoy the comparatively easy progress.

An hour passed and then another, between the altitude and the effort of the walking there was precious little breath left for conversation.

With just the beam of your head torch and the feet of the person in front for company it was hard to note any of the usual checkpoints.

Between the lack of stimulation and the monotony of planting one foot in front of the other it’s perhaps not surprising that tiredness began to take hold.

Gradually I felt my eyes grow heavier until eventually I’d “drift off” before I’d feel my head snap up and my eyes spring open and wonder what the hell had just happened!

I tried to fight it as best as I could, memory games, biting my lip, anything that might help keep me awake but all to no avail and by the time we reached the Hans Meyer cave my “micro sleeps” must have been into double figures!

False Start…....

Millennium Camp – 28^th February 

Needless to say the atmosphere over dinner was electric and it was somewhat grudgingly that we all made our way to our tents around 6pm to try and get some sleep.

My mind was swimming with thoughts as I lay in my sleeping bag, I had reached this point feeling stronger than I could have ever hoped for and whilst I knew I was within touching distance of achieving my dream I also knew the worst was yet to come.

Every blog, guide book and account of the summit day talks about the hellish scree slope that you have to climb to reach Gillman’s Point and over the last 18 months it had become something of a mantra for every time I wanted to quit on a run “you’re not going to quit on the scree so you’re not going to quit NOW!”.

Eventually I drifted off and whilst I slept well, it felt as though I was awake again barely minutes after my eyes had shut.

The darkness surrounding the tent confirmed that this wasn’t the case and a quick check on my watch confirmed that it had just gone 10pm.

Knowing that it would be nigh impossible to get back to sleep again feeling this excited I lay there mentally checking my kit until suddenly there was an unwelcome flash quickly followed by the menacing rumble of thunder.

The next half hour was agonising, I knew that there was no way we’d be setting off in the middle of an electrical storm and so I was left contemplating the devastating prospect of heading home having gotten this close.

At times it felt as though the storm was mocking us as it would appear to move on giving us a glimmer of hope before suddenly returning right on top of us and more violent than ever before.

It may have been foolish optimism or just a bad case of denial but I refused to believe that my Kilimanjaro dream was about to be scuppered by the weather, so at 10:45pm I started to get myself ready.

My heart refused to believe what my head knew was inevitable and I paused straining to hear John and Mweke discuss our options.

I knew what was coming as John approached our tent, the light from my headtorch having betrayed me:

“Who’s that?”

“Simon”

“Go back to bed mate, we’ll have another look at 2am”

I’m not a religious man and so I cannot describe what I did as I slumped back into my sleeping bag as praying, however what I did do was hope.  

I hoped with the very fibre of my being until it felt an almost physical act to be allowed my shot at the summit but as I drifted in to sleep the storm rolled on.

The A Team…....

Outward Bound School Hut – 27^th February 

The plan is to split the group into two teams for the summit ascent.

The first team will aim to leave around 11:00pm (TONIGHT!) with the second following approximately 45mins later.

The idea is that both will walk at a similar pace but the extra time will allow for extra breaks for team A and in theory we should all reach the summit at about the same time.

So far I’m still feeling strong and have been walking well, I’ve no doubt in my mind that tomorrow is likely to be tougher than anything I have done before (and probably than I can imagine) so I could have a lie in (?!) and go with the second group.

However, I’ve been in a really fortunate position to be able to help many of the guys in the “A Team” throughout the trek and as a result have developed a stronger bond with many of them.

I also can’t help but feel that it would be a real privilege to see some of the guys (and girls) who were struggling so badly on the first day achieve something that at times must have felt so out of reach.

And if there is some small way left in which I can help these guys to make it then that really would be something truly special and can only enrich my own journey to the top.

 The Proposed "A Team"

Nerissa, Dembi & Joe

Jas, Kate & Raj

Suzie & Yours Truly 

Let It Snow……

Outward Bound School Hut – 27^th February 

I woke up this morning to the sound of rain hammering down onto the tent, never the most encouraging start to the day but eventually I managed to coax myself from the warm comfort of my sleeping bag.

I was completely unprepared for the view that met me when I left the tent, it seems it wasn’t rain that fell last night but snow, to the extent that now almost the whole of the Kibo massif was now covered!

 Kibo the evning before.....

 and Kibo the morning after!

A distinct pattern developed in the conversation as the others began to emerge from their tents:

“Morning Raj”

“Morning Simon”

“Seen the mountain?”

“F****** Hell!!"

“Morning Nerissa”

“Morning Simon”

“Seen the mountain?"

“Oh My F******* God, are we going up that?”

And so it continued until everyone was up and the guides were convinced we were all suffering from tourettes!

In many ways it was the perfect start to the day and the excitement was tangible over breakfast as the realisation set in that with a planned 11pm start most of us would be starting our summit push…..TODAY!

We set off following the same route as our little walk the previous afternoon but we could all feel the pinch as the gradient steepened and we passed the high point of yesterday.

 Almost at yesterdays high point.

Spirits remained high within the group and, touch wood, the altitude headaches were staying away however both the groups pace (and banter) began to slow.

As we approached 4,500m John announced “Congratulations guys you’ve just reached the summit of the Matterhorn”, we summoned as much of a cheer as we could but I suspect he may have been hoping for a little more enthusiasm!

 John & Mweke no doubt discussing improtant summit strategy!

There was a slightly bigger cheer when we turned a corner and could see the camp however whilst despite it seeming almost within touching distance it still took another half hour before we could drop our packs.

Once again our porters have excelled themselves, finding one of the flattest pitches for our tent and a cracking view of Mawenzi thrown in for good measure.

 The view from our tent.

The atmosphere is happy and relaxed, everyone appears to be feeling pretty good and trying to conserve their energy for what lies ahed.

Personally I feel as though I’m walking around in a bit of a daze, the top is now tantalisingly close and after 3 and a half years I can’t quite believe that I’m here.

There’s still an awful lot of work to do and I’ve little doubt that tomorrow will be hell in places but I’ve reached this point feeling strong and well acclimatised.

The afternoon cloud rolling in (our tent in the foreground).

All I have to do now is concentrate on putting one foot in front of the other and focus on the thought of sending Claire the text message saying “Kilimanjaro……DONE!”

 One more sleep to go!

Keep On Moving…....

Third Cave Camp – 26^th February 

Everyone was a little bleary eyed this morning, given the nature of this site most of the tents had been pitched on a slope so folks spent much of the night either rolling into one another of sliding down towards the door.

Tent mate James enjoying his early morning coffee.

Fortunately I had another pretty good nights sleep.  This may be due to the fact that our porters had done an excellent job and pitched our tent on a comparatively flat spot or it may be because I had a decent tote of scotch before turning in for the night….personally I prefer the idea touted by John that I obviously have a clearer conscience than most!

 The crew getting ready to break camp.

This mornings walk was scheduled to take between 4-5 hours and with no real improvement in the weather and no change in the landscape I think the general consensus was to get our heads down and crack on with it.

 Heads down and cracking on!

Thankfully whatever may have been lacking in the weather/views was more than compensated by the spirits of the group and these were raised further when just a little over three hours we crested a ridge and were met with views of the campsite.

The welcome sight of the Third Cave Camp.

Morale was further boosted by the news that there had been a resupply that morning too, it’s remarkable just how much of a difference a can of hot chocolate can make but after several days the lack of variety was starting to tell making those little luxuries all the more important!

Again there was an afternoon excursion ascending to approx 350m higher before returning to camp.

To be honest it would have been very easy to have settled down in my tent with my book and spend the afternoon chilling out but it was an excellent chance to boost my acclimatisation and let’s face it I’m probably not going to be here again so it seemed foolish to pass it up.

As we were only going to be gone for a couple of hours I left my rucksack behind and it felt liberating to walk without the persistent tug at my shoulders.

 Making our way up to the ridge.

Motoring my way up to the top of the ridge we were rewarded with our first good views of Mawenzi, looking like Mount Doom from Lord of The Rings it is “other” peak on Kilimanjaro. 

A local Chagga legend tells how Mawenzi was always jealous of Kibo and one day having let it’s own fire burn out helped itself to some of it’s taller neighbours.

Returning to find his hot coals missing Kibo struck a crashing blow to Mawenzi rendering him forever dormant and creating the jagged formation that stands today!

Mawenzi, straight out of Mordor?

Over dinner there was an noticeable increase in everyone’s level of excitement, Kibo now feels tantalisingly close an tomorrow marks the start of our summit push with the climb to the Outward Bound School hut.

Moonwalking……

Buffalo Ridge Camp – 25^th February 

Thankfully we still have a full team as everybody who was struggling with AMS yesterday have woken up with clear enough heads to continue.

Another morning another beautiful sunrise.

Poor old Emma looks as though she has been 10 rounds with…..well, the mountain, but it really is a herculean effort after what she went through yesterday and along with an overwhelming sense of relief there is a renewed energy amongst the group.

 Mich & Coops admiring the cloud inversion over the Shira plateau.

 Although there is minimal height gain during today’s walk the first part of our walk takes us back up and past the base of Little Lent Hill so those that didn’t make the excursion yesterday afternoon left slightly earlier in order to reach the summit.

 The early risers on top of Little Lent (but only if you look REALLY closely).

 As usual it didn’t take the porters long  to catch up, overtake and disappear into the distance as we puffed our way back up to the crest of the ridge we had already climbed yesterday.  

You really do have to pause with amazement as these guys pass carrying the kind of loads that make your shoulders ache just looking at them, yet they almost always have a smile and a cheery “Jambo” as they motor past!

The porters, having caught up and overtaken us, continue on their relentless march!

Whilst initially spectacular, several hours making our way across the same featureless landscape has become, dare I say, a bit tedious.

Couple this with decent fog, denying us any of the breathtaking vistas we had enjoyed over the previous days it’s perhaps not surprising that the early morning enthusiasm had dissipated by the time we stopped for lunch.

However after lunch we began losing height and quickly found ourselves back amongst the moorland zone characterised by it’s more prolific plant life.

There were even occasions when the cloud broke long enough to afford us a glimpse across the border into Kenya a view a tiny fraction of the visitors to Kili get to see as the majority of routes shun the North side of the mountain.

 Looking into Kenya.

Having reached the traditional spot for the Buffalo Ridge camps we carried on for another 45 mins for our campsite in a more sheltered location and once again our porters had done us proud pitching our tent on possibly the flattest area within the site!

The fog that had been a persistent feature of the day began to clear shortly before dinner and there was a brief moment when we were treated to a spectacular “double ended” rainbow.

 One rainbow, two ends and not a pot of gold in sight!

It may be the drop in temperature and I’m sure the “forced” slouch of the camping chairs hasn’t helped but my back has felt a little tight today (I’m absolutely certain it’s nothing to do with carting that rock up Little Lent yesterday).

However despite having felt a little “woolly” at times today my head is now clear and my legs are feeling strong which is great because by the end of tomorrow we will have finished our traverse and gearing up for our attempt on the summit. 

 The undoubted star of the day, Emma still going after her run in with AMS

and even managing the occassional smile!

Reality Bites……

Moir Hut – 24^th February 

Not everybody made the excursion up to Little Lent Hill as there were a few amongst the group who had developed mild AMS headaches on the morning walk up to the camp.

Unfortunately shortly after our return we were to discover that Emma (S) had deteriorated and was now suffering from the full blown pounding headache we had all feared.

There’s no doubt that she is receiving excellent care and has been given some Diamox and painkillers but if she deteriorates any further or has failed to clear by the morning there’ll be no option but for her descend.

I’m sure my feelings would be mirrored by everyone else as over the last few days we have really started to bond as a group with everyone offering each other the support we’ll need to reach the summit.

And at the risk of sounding cynical it’s probably fair to say that it would almost be expected that some of us would be struck down in the final stages however this just feels too soon.

Despite this cloud looming over us all, spirits remain pretty high over dinner and Pierre’s record of winning every card game at his first attempt (before rapidly moving on to the next) has finally been broken!

It is noticeably colder tonight so I’m going to promote my down jacket from pillow to blanket hopefully continuing my run of good sleeps and with any luck there will be some good news waiting for us at breakfast too.

Woke Up This Morning……

Moir Hut – 24^th February 

Feeling fine…….which although not exactly a surprise was nevertheless a massive relief particularly as I have been looking forward to the “excursion” up Little Lent Hill planned for this afternoon!

  Early morning tea and coffee!

This morning’s walk up to the Moir Hut was awesome, moving from the Moorland Zone into the “Alpine Dessert” reach really does resemble the kind of landscape you would normally associate with the moon.

 

We might be half way up but it still feels a long way away! 

Despite not packing up camp until we've left it never takes the porters long to catch up (and overtae). 

 

Needing only a couple of hours to reach the next camp and given the altitude (4,200m) it wasn’t much surprise to discover that there were a few heavy heads and upset stomachs amongst the group.

 Camp at the Moir Hut with Little Lent Hill in the background (sticking up from the ridge).

I’m not sure whether it was a moment of stupidity, feigned machismo or a genuine desire to take advantage of a “training opportunity” but before heading out for the afternoon I decided that it would be a great idea to add a decent sized rock to my rucksack.

 

Of course that idea didn’t seem so great as I puffed my way up the 200m of ascent to the top of the ridgeline and it started to seem positively daft as we approached the final scramble up to the summit.

 The Lent Hill Group.

However there was some consolation, firstly as I struggled with the extra weight I likened the experienced to what I imagine the summit morning will be like when  I’m sure that there will be many times when I’ll want to give up but dropping a rock won’t be an option.

Secondly, Suzie, our leader from the Kids Company having talked me into it had the decency to add a rock to her rucksack too so I could rest assured that there was at least someone else as ……committed……..as me!

 Suzie and I contemplating our rocks!

Of course the looks and laughs we received from the porters and guides when we finally took our rocks out of our packs showed just how “committed” they thought the pair of us were!

Making our way across the "moonscape"!

The summit of Little Lent Hill was spectacular, with amazing views in almost every direction and littered with these small man-made rock “sculptures”.

 The rock sculptures at the summit of Little Lent.

 If you're not in the photo you better be taking it!

With the hard work done there was time for some fun as the descent was down a scree slope which not everyone had encountered before (but would need to master by the summit day).

 John from Warthog Mountaineering leading the way on the descent.

Well it’s fair to say some took to it better than others and Jas, who on the first few days had been about as sure of his footing as a new born deer (on ice) set off like a missile!

 Taking on the scree!

 

In fact Jas had set off so quickly that almost everyone in the group had missed it until Meke our Head Guide desperately bellowed after him “FOLLOW THE GUIDE” as he desperately tried to stop Jas before he descended halfway down the mountain in his enthusiasm!

 The "Screaming Scree Missile" Jas!

Plains and Cathedrals……

Shira 2 Camp – 23^rd February 

I woke up this morning just early enough to witness the sunrise from behind the Kibo massif.

This was further enhanced when our porters moved the entire mess tent canopy to provide us with an open air setting for our breakfast, a truly spectacular experience!

 Breakfast with a view.

Even just after a couple of days you can see a massive improvement in the groups admin with everybody pretty much packed up and ready to go BEFORE we get the five minute warning!

 Setting off, ON TIME!!!

The first leg of today was across the expanse of the Shira plateau which consists almost entirely of the low level plants and bushes that are characteristic of the “Moorland” zone.

 Everlastings.

 Lobelia.

Compared to the previous two days the going was easy and so it was perhaps no surprise that we arrived at the foot of the Shira Cathedral ahead of schedule.

 Approaching the Shira Cathedral.

The views back were epic and behind the ridge on the far side of the plateau was a bank of cloud rolling past as a gentle reminder of how high we actually were!

 The view back across the plateau.

We had been warned that the ascent to the top of the Cathedral would involve a bit of a scramble (where walking begins to move a little closer to climbing and a more “hands on” approach is required) so only a relatively small group elected to make the ascent.

 The Cathedral crew.

The view from the summit was even more magnificent and looking back to the rest of our group below you could see a bank of cloud formed right at the edge of the plateau but refusing to advance as if restrained by an invisible barrier!

 YOU SHALL NOT PASS!

Reunited with the others there was little over an hour left until we reached our final objective for the day, Shira 2 Camp.

The walking was still easy however as we made the small climb up to the camp I noticed that a niggling headache was starting to develop. 

 The highest point a helicopter can reach.....but don't PANIC!

I knew that several others in the group had experienced this the day before and woken up “bright eyed and bushy tailed” so I wasn’t overly concerned but it was an unwelcome reminder of the threat of AMS!

A hot lunch was a welcome treat upon our arrival at the camp and the rest of the afternoon was spent with more cards and banter punctuated by brief (but regular) breaks to admire the view as the cloud broke to reveal Kibo in all it’s glory.

 My tent buddy James contemplating the mountain (or a visit to the loo)!

Another very welcome interruption was the arrival of some familiar faces as Reto & Vreni had popped over from their trek on the Machame route.  Although it had only been a couple of days it was great to see them again and to discover that they were enjoying Kili just as much as I was.

I’d also like to think that they were already at the Shira 2 when they told the rest of the group that they had heard my voice and thought they’d wander over and say hello!

 Feet in the clouds.

After such a magnificent start to the day it seemed fitting that it would end in an equally spectacular manner and from our perch almost halfway up the mountain we were treated to a grandstand view of a electrical storm within a towering thundercloud, (thankfully)several miles away.

After 20 mins trying to catch the lightning (and in the interest of saving the camera battery)....I gave up!

Mt Meru is to the left of the cloud.

Onwards and upwards……

Shira Plateau Camp – 22^nd February 

It’s quite easy for me to forget just how well established my camping routine has become over the last few years but walking around the camp as we prepared to leave served as a timely reminder!

I swear that some of the guys must have unpacked just about everything they own which was now strew around their tents (inside and out).

This ensured more than a small degree of panic as folks frantically tried to find everything they would need for the day whilst simultaneously trying to cram everything back into the bags it had come out of the evening before!

I’d like to say we left on time……..but I can’t!

I’d like to say we left almost on time……(I’m sure you get the picture)!

The first few hours trekking today was working our way through the upper reaches of the forest and without the rain it was a truly breathtaking experience.

 We're dry and we're happy!

I’ve no doubt that I lack the vocabulary and the poetic expertise to do it justice but in the dappled light of the early morning sun I couldn’t help snapping away even if I knew that to the uninitiated it would simply appear as just another “green” image.

 

 Old Mans Beard hanging from the trees.

 Just another green picture!

The transition between forest and moorland somehow managed to be both sudden and unnoticed at the same time!

In the space of a few minutes we went from walking amongst towering trees to following a narrow trail cut between 10ft high bushes and scrub!

 What goes down must go up...and down.....and up again!

As for the walking, it was not particularly challenging, crossing a series of short climbs and descents as we crossed the valleys on our way up towards the plateau.

 The porters taking a well deserved break (and already a LONG way ahead).

However as a group we were still finding our rhythm and at times the pattern of taking a couple of steps forward and then grinding to a halt seeming far more tiring (not to mention frustrating) than sticking to a steady pace all the way up.

 Not the worst  traffic jam I've ever been in.

Still the breaks provided a good excuse to grab some more photos and as we gained height the plant life grew smaller providing great views of the foothills and farmland that surround the mountain.

 Packed lunch and a view, what more could a trekker ask for!

After a decent break for lunch it was just another hour up onto the Shira Plateau and as we approached the campsite all our porters appeared eager to show us where our tents had been pitched and our bags were waiting….THESE GUYS ROCK!

 Shira Plateau camp, complete with tents pitched and baggage waiting.

It was a welcome contrast to our late arrival in camp yesterday and provided the perfect opportunity to relax and get to know each other (as well as the finer strategy for Uno and various other card games)!

 At first I was ridiculed for taking this photo

(but I thought otherwise no-one would believe just how could a hand I had been dealt)!

Then I was ridiculed for failing to WIN with it!

It’s already starting to feel that we are coming together as a group and the banter is flying around freer than ever!