Plains and Cathedrals……

Shira 2 Camp – 23^rd February 

I woke up this morning just early enough to witness the sunrise from behind the Kibo massif.

This was further enhanced when our porters moved the entire mess tent canopy to provide us with an open air setting for our breakfast, a truly spectacular experience!

 Breakfast with a view.

Even just after a couple of days you can see a massive improvement in the groups admin with everybody pretty much packed up and ready to go BEFORE we get the five minute warning!

 Setting off, ON TIME!!!

The first leg of today was across the expanse of the Shira plateau which consists almost entirely of the low level plants and bushes that are characteristic of the “Moorland” zone.

 Everlastings.

 Lobelia.

Compared to the previous two days the going was easy and so it was perhaps no surprise that we arrived at the foot of the Shira Cathedral ahead of schedule.

 Approaching the Shira Cathedral.

The views back were epic and behind the ridge on the far side of the plateau was a bank of cloud rolling past as a gentle reminder of how high we actually were!

 The view back across the plateau.

We had been warned that the ascent to the top of the Cathedral would involve a bit of a scramble (where walking begins to move a little closer to climbing and a more “hands on” approach is required) so only a relatively small group elected to make the ascent.

 The Cathedral crew.

The view from the summit was even more magnificent and looking back to the rest of our group below you could see a bank of cloud formed right at the edge of the plateau but refusing to advance as if restrained by an invisible barrier!

 YOU SHALL NOT PASS!

Reunited with the others there was little over an hour left until we reached our final objective for the day, Shira 2 Camp.

The walking was still easy however as we made the small climb up to the camp I noticed that a niggling headache was starting to develop. 

 The highest point a helicopter can reach.....but don't PANIC!

I knew that several others in the group had experienced this the day before and woken up “bright eyed and bushy tailed” so I wasn’t overly concerned but it was an unwelcome reminder of the threat of AMS!

A hot lunch was a welcome treat upon our arrival at the camp and the rest of the afternoon was spent with more cards and banter punctuated by brief (but regular) breaks to admire the view as the cloud broke to reveal Kibo in all it’s glory.

 My tent buddy James contemplating the mountain (or a visit to the loo)!

Another very welcome interruption was the arrival of some familiar faces as Reto & Vreni had popped over from their trek on the Machame route.  Although it had only been a couple of days it was great to see them again and to discover that they were enjoying Kili just as much as I was.

I’d also like to think that they were already at the Shira 2 when they told the rest of the group that they had heard my voice and thought they’d wander over and say hello!

 Feet in the clouds.

After such a magnificent start to the day it seemed fitting that it would end in an equally spectacular manner and from our perch almost halfway up the mountain we were treated to a grandstand view of a electrical storm within a towering thundercloud, (thankfully)several miles away.

After 20 mins trying to catch the lightning (and in the interest of saving the camera battery)....I gave up!

Mt Meru is to the left of the cloud.

Onwards and upwards……

Shira Plateau Camp – 22^nd February 

It’s quite easy for me to forget just how well established my camping routine has become over the last few years but walking around the camp as we prepared to leave served as a timely reminder!

I swear that some of the guys must have unpacked just about everything they own which was now strew around their tents (inside and out).

This ensured more than a small degree of panic as folks frantically tried to find everything they would need for the day whilst simultaneously trying to cram everything back into the bags it had come out of the evening before!

I’d like to say we left on time……..but I can’t!

I’d like to say we left almost on time……(I’m sure you get the picture)!

The first few hours trekking today was working our way through the upper reaches of the forest and without the rain it was a truly breathtaking experience.

 We're dry and we're happy!

I’ve no doubt that I lack the vocabulary and the poetic expertise to do it justice but in the dappled light of the early morning sun I couldn’t help snapping away even if I knew that to the uninitiated it would simply appear as just another “green” image.

 

 Old Mans Beard hanging from the trees.

 Just another green picture!

The transition between forest and moorland somehow managed to be both sudden and unnoticed at the same time!

In the space of a few minutes we went from walking amongst towering trees to following a narrow trail cut between 10ft high bushes and scrub!

 What goes down must go up...and down.....and up again!

As for the walking, it was not particularly challenging, crossing a series of short climbs and descents as we crossed the valleys on our way up towards the plateau.

 The porters taking a well deserved break (and already a LONG way ahead).

However as a group we were still finding our rhythm and at times the pattern of taking a couple of steps forward and then grinding to a halt seeming far more tiring (not to mention frustrating) than sticking to a steady pace all the way up.

 Not the worst  traffic jam I've ever been in.

Still the breaks provided a good excuse to grab some more photos and as we gained height the plant life grew smaller providing great views of the foothills and farmland that surround the mountain.

 Packed lunch and a view, what more could a trekker ask for!

After a decent break for lunch it was just another hour up onto the Shira Plateau and as we approached the campsite all our porters appeared eager to show us where our tents had been pitched and our bags were waiting….THESE GUYS ROCK!

 Shira Plateau camp, complete with tents pitched and baggage waiting.

It was a welcome contrast to our late arrival in camp yesterday and provided the perfect opportunity to relax and get to know each other (as well as the finer strategy for Uno and various other card games)!

 At first I was ridiculed for taking this photo

(but I thought otherwise no-one would believe just how could a hand I had been dealt)!

Then I was ridiculed for failing to WIN with it!

It’s already starting to feel that we are coming together as a group and the banter is flying around freer than ever!

Why Must It Always Rain On Me……

Big Tree Camp – 21^st February 

There was a tangible buzz of excitement and anticipation among the group this morning as finally after all our planning and preparation the start of our Kilimanjaro adventure had arrived.

 

There was barely organised chaos as we got ready to leave, bags being weighed, emptied and weighed again before being loaded onto the trucks whilst we dashed about looking for those with enough space in their rucksacks to ensure no wine was left behind!

 

 Bags on top......

 Peeps in the back (and yes it was just as cosy as it looks)!

 

The weather hadn’t been great since the others arrived but it was clear now and it wasn’t long before they caught their first glimpse of Kibo rising above the cloud looking almost translucent in the distance.

I’m not sure who spotted it first but their loud exclamation of “F*** it’s BIG!” summed up the feeling of the group pretty well!

 Yes, it is BIG!

 After 90 minutes of the “good” road followed by the best part of an hour of “African” road we arrived at the Londorossi Gate the official start of our trek!

 Londorossi Gate, The "Official" start to the Lemosho Route.

 

 After over 2hrs in the truck there's a welcome opportunity to stretch our legs......

Whilst waiting for our turn to sign the register.

We’d been told the night before that we’d be supported by a crew of 74 (yes 74!) guides, cooks and porters so the scenes we witnessed on our arrival made our departure from the Ilboru look positively civilised! 

Although everybody needs to register here the actual “walking” start is about 30 mins away, so in addition to our trucks was a big lorry to transport the crew some of whom were in the process of climbing over the sides in an attempt to grab the best “seats”.

 The scramble for the best seat begins despite the lack of actual seats!

Once spotted a brief scrum ensued as the rest piled in to stake their claim however it was all in vain as they were soon hustled off for a roll call before being allowed on one at a time.

But it's all to no avail as they're unloaded for the roll call!

Right on cue it started to rain just as we loaded ourselves back into the truck and tentatively our convoy approached our start.

Watching the truck ahead snake it way across the track searching for traction as it moves closer and closer to a 50 ft drop into the forest is one thing but to feel yours do the same was almost enough to ensure……well you can probably imagine!

 There were moments when I wondered if this would be the last photo of the truck in front!

It wasn’t long before the condition of the track had deteriorated so much that there was no choice but to dismount and proceed on foot.

 Not the best track to walk on but marginaly better than trying to drive!

It may have added an hours walking to our day but soon confirmed as the right call as we passed a group desperately trying to power out a truck stuck up to it’s axle! 

The rain refused to ease up and our progress slowed to a crawl as the path alternated between a sticky bog and a greasy mud slide making some sections virtually impassable.

 And although the rain eased as we entered the forest....

But the wet (and slippy) ground made some of going tough!

It certainly wasn’t the glorious start to our expedition we had anticipated and there was a definite spell amongst our group as we each contemplated the prospect of another eight days of this!

 The scenery was spectacular.

Offering as much support as we could to one another we progressed, literally step by step through spectacular forest eventually arriving at Big Tree Camp just as the light began to fail.

 

 There's the Big Tree.....

 and there's the camp!

Having promised good food based on my experience we were not disappointed with a menu that was exactly the same as my first night on Mt Meru.  

The coincidence was soon explained when we discovered that January was also amongst the cooks here.

 The mess tent ready and waiting for ravenous trekkers!

With many in the group exhausted and everyone well fed it was obviously never going to be a late night but there was just enough time for some 15 year old single malt and some Green & Blacks Butterscotch, the secret weapons in my charm offensive!

There’s Only One Chance To Make A First Impression……

Ilboru Safari Lodge – 20^th February

There were a myriad of thoughts and emotions running through my mind on the drive back from Mt Meru.

On the one hand there was sadness (but immense satisfaction) for the adventure I had just completed but this was mixed with excitement (and apprehension) for what was yet to come.

Relieved to be reunited with my long lost luggage all I needed now was a good shower and hopefully I’d resemble something human again before meeting up with everyone else.

With this in mind it’s probably not surprising that I almost burst into tears when we arrived at the hotel only to be told that my room wasn’t ready yet!

It may have been the state (or the smell) of me but I’d like to think that it was my winning personality and dazzling smile that convinced the very nice receptionist to sneak me into my room a little early.

Having a terrible memory for names, meeting large groups of new people can be a terrifying experience but still buzzing from Meru it was just great to have some company with whom to share a beer.

With the Kids Company Kilimanjaro 2012 crew assembled it was time for a final briefing before dinner and remembering just how shattered I’d been on arrival (and the early start tomorrow) it wasn’t surprising when folks started drifting off to bed.

Grabbing a final beer there was just enough time to log on in the internet “café” and send Claire a message, not least because it’s our anniversary today, 12 years and still going strong!