Miriakamba Hut – 19th February
Despite my best efforts an early night eluded me and so I only managed to get little more than a nap before waking up at 12:45am for my attempt at the summit of Mt Meru.
All wrapped up and ready to go!
A combination of feelings between excitement and apprehension mixed in equal measure as I sorted my kit and nibbled on a light breakfast before grabbing a few minutes to myself.
Whenever I’m away I try and find the “Plough” constellation in the night sky. It’s something we can usually see from our garden and helps me feel a connection to home.
It’s not always possible to spot and so far on this trip I had drawn a blank but just as we were ready to set off I found it, upside down and just above the dark silhouette of Little Meru.
At the risk of sounding clichéd but in that moment it was a good as having Claire’s hand on my shoulder telling me I’m going to make it!
Wilfred doing his best Grumpy impression, clearly not happy about posing with Sponge Bob!
With Vitus setting a very slow, steady pace we headed off into the dark arriving at Rhino Point in just over an hour.
Knowing that I’m a keen photographer Wilfred was eager to make sure we reached the summit in time for sunrise.
To that end we pressed on across the tricky traverse from Rhino Point to the summit ridge.
Still feeling strong we made good progress and by the time we had reached 4,100m we were ahead of schedule…..
And that’s when the altitude bit!
The next hour was spent on a constant grind up a slope of fine volcanic sand and loose scree, feeling the strength bleed away as you slip back one step for every three you move forward.
The time we had gained steadily slipped away and the higher I climbed the more it felt as though my boots had been filled with lead.
It’s at this point that the inner demons made their play, telling me that I couldn’t make it, that I wouldn’t make it and your only option is to stubbornly persist in placing one foot in front of the other.
My darkest point came about 4,350m when my guide Wilfred, asked me “How many fingers am I holding up?”
Knowing that this was his way of checking whether the altitude was affecting me too badly I was relieved to be able to rattle off the answers to that and the other questions that followed.
Whilst the guides have a responsibility to help their clients achieve their goals and reach the summit, for a good guide this will always be secondary to their obligation to get them back safely.
With this in mind I knew that from this point forward Wilfred would be keeping a close eye for the symptoms of AMS.
The final 100m of ascent was quite simply hell.
The steady shuffling steps were no longer an option as the way to the summit was up a natural “staircase” of blocks each rising a foot or more.
In the rarefied air the effect was akin to when you experience a short dizzy spell after standing too quickly. Three or four steps was all I could manage before I needed to pause as the last thing I could afford right now was to lose my balance!
At approximately 6:30am I virtually crawled onto the small summit, joining the small group of trekkers who had reached it ahead of us.
Kilimanjaro "photo-crashing" my summit pic
Looking significantly more triumphant than I felt!
And even Wilfreds looking a tad less Grumpy now.
Everyone was impressed with Sponge Bobs efforts to reach the summit,
not least because he managed it in a boat,
apparently a first for Mt Meru.
With near perfect timing Reto, Vreni and Vitus caught up with us just in time to witness the most magnificent sunrise, complete with Kilimanjaro outlined on the horizon.
And even the sunrise lived up to it's star billing!
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